RT2 and RT3 Interchange

[Image]

Whats the difference?

I have an RT3 on my truck now. If I buy an RT2 plow will it work with my truck mount and wiring?


What are the visible differences between RT2 and RT3 so I know when I'm shopping.

Thanks

[SnoFarmer]

RT II push beam


RT 3 push beam


The wire harness should work
but I believe they made 2 diffident ones?

[MRHORSEPOWER1]

RT2 comes with 11 pin wiring harness and RT3 with 13 pin wiring harness

[Image]

oh so they dont interchange at all it looks like. I thought I had heard someone say you could use a RTII plow on an RT3 mount, but I guess not.

[B&B]

Originally Posted by image

I thought I had heard someone say you could use a RTII plow on an RT3 mount, but I guess not.

On some applications you can change just the push beam itself. That's possibly what you're mind is referring to.

[Image]

Are the RT2 Boss plows just as good as the RT3? Do they hook up just as easy as my SmartHitch2?

The one I am looking at needs cutting edges, do the new formed edges fit the old blade? (its a 8.2 V plow)

It also needs head lights, any recommendation on which aftermarket lights to buy with the best bang for the buck?

[SnoFarmer]

Originally Posted by image

Are the RT2 Boss plows just as good as the RT3?

I don't know about thr rtIII I'm still running my rtII.

places to look for cracks on the rtII is at thr center hinge , at the very bottom. usually the eye for the drivers side wing is cracked.

next lift the blade and put it in the scoop. look at the trip pin as you push the blade side to side for excess play.

You can also stand at the end of the plow and look down, some times they will have a twist to the wing.




Do they hook up just as easy as my SmartHitch2?

I line the truck up, get out and push the head-gear up, (sometimes i need to prop it up in place using a grain shovel or a custom cut 2x4.) then drive in pull the lever, pin it in place and plug it in.

The one I am looking at needs cutting edges, do the new formed edges fit the old blade? (its a 8.2 V plow)
They will fit but you will need to drill out the holes on the blade to allow the use of the larger bolts. Next you will need to grind off a little in the center so they will fit around the bottom of the hinge.


It also needs head lights, any recommendation on which aftermarket lights to buy with the best bang for the buck?

Hope this helps.

[O.C.C. Inc.]

Originally Posted by SnoFarmer

Hope this helps.

Snow Farmer
You have my full attention, on the part ( lift the blade up, look at the trip pin as you push the blade side to side for excess play ) I've currently switched over to BOSS have 3 that range from 5years old to 2 years old. I have a 9,2 V-XT that I noticed play in the other night, is there supposed to be no play at all? I never really payed any attention I was used to running the 10' v last year and it dose'nt have any play at all.
I'm curious now.

[SnoFarmer]

I believe there is a little play from the factory.

All if the side to side forces are transferred to this hinge. The pipe (lack of a better term) gets "bell mouthed" from the pin over time. I also have come across a bent pin from time to time.

It can take a lot of abuse before it well let go.

I'm going to dismantle my plow this summer and replace this "pipe" that makes up the hinge for the roll or trip.(pick your term)

The drivers side lower wing hinge and the trip pin are the week links. They still can take a lot of abuse even it this condition.
I've been abusing mine for 12years.
Maybe I'll get a new/used one in a couple of years. So far it's been the best plow I've owned.

If you have an older one with some slop it is a good idea to raise your plow (put a jack stand under it) and take a close look at the center section for any cracks. it is this section that also limits the side to side as it cradles the push frame. mine had cracks on ether side. No pics but I still have it, it's in the scrap pile under the snow.

ho, ya, To bend it, I hit a tall curb dead on, going way to fast in the ^ position, stopped me dead the truck bounced into the air.

[O.C.C. Inc.]

Thankyou for the description and the pics Snow Farmer!
I doubt I have any damage that bad. But now I know to keep my eyes on these areas. I'll be doing a very thorough inspection on this plow come Mon. morning.

[B&B]

Side to side slack between the center tower and push frame is completely normal and intended. Just keep an eye on things just as you would with any plow.

[SnoFarmer]

yea, some slop is nice and normal.
It lets the edge fallow the terrain better but at some point it becomes excessive.

[Image]

I've got that RT2 in the shop right now cleaning it up and getting ready for paint. Looked it over Sno was right on... My trip pin looks just like the one in the pic he posted. I also had to reinforce where the wing return springs were pulling through (like GV's thread)

[B&B]

Not bad for something that's at least 12 years old. Couple other things to check while you're there...

Remove all four lift cylinder bolts and check them for wear where they pivot in their brackets, because they will be if they're original. A few fresh grade 8 bolts should fix you up there.

Check the holes in the pump mount plate where the wing hoses are routed through to be sure the grommets are there and in place. As soon as the grommet disappear the hoses will be cut by the surrounding metal.

A fluid change and filter clean is a wise idea now also if you have no previous service records. Two filters in the reservoir, and one in the valve block in the lower outer corner.

[Image]

Originally Posted by B&B

Not bad for something that's at least 12 years old. Couple other things to check while you're there...

Remove all four lift cylinder bolts and check them for wear where they pivot in their brackets, because they will be if they're original. A few fresh grade 8 bolts should fix you up there.

Check the holes in the pump mount plate where the wing hoses are routed through to be sure the grommets are there and in place. As soon as the grommet disappear the hoses will be cut by the surrounding metal.

A fluid change and filter clean is a wise idea now also if you have no previous service records. Two filters in the reservoir, and one in the valve block in the lower outer corner.

Thanks for the tips, will do :)

I called Boss and the serial number makes mine an 95/96 plow. They are sending me new stickers for it for free too.

[woodenshoe]

Originally Posted by image

oh so they don't interchange at all it looks like. I thought I had heard someone say you could use a RTII plow on an RT3 mount, but I guess not.

Maybe you were thinking smart-hitch 1 & 2 (both RT3). Those are interchangeable (other then the 11pin vs 13 pin connector)

They changed the main trip pin size between the RTII and the RT3. The RTII had a 3/4" or 7/8" pin (can't remember), and the RT3 went to a bigger sized pin (we never broke a RT3 trip pin). On the RTII's, we used bulk oil hardened drill rod, cut to length, welded a washer on one side, worked it into place and welded a washer to the other side. The factory replacement pins with the cotter/roll pins never held things in place for us.

We destroyed lots of wings on our Boss vee's (ripped out bottom hinges, and curled lots of wings over forward). We only have 1 Boss vee left, once the wings bend they don't scrape worth a crap, and new wings cost a mint.

We still have not found an indestructible plow

[Image]

I was gonna make my own pin after the local Boss dealer told me $40 for a replacement. Then I called Central Parts Warehouse and they sell the kit for $13.

Thats a no brainer for sure.

[B&B]

Might want to double confirm a p/n Steve. Unless they're selling you some home made generic deal (not unheard of) the pins are $40.